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Thursday, 18 September 2025 15:52
Even during his days off, Raul Morales gets spotted by fans. On a recent visit to Universal Studios Hollywood, Morales, owner of Taqueria Vista Hermosa in Los Angeles, was waiting in line when he heard shouting.
“People called out ‘Chef Al Pastor! Chef Al Pastor!’” Morales said, laughing. Morales, who was born in Mexico City, came by the nickname through decades of hard work.
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He’s the third generation of his family to make al pastor tacos, their fresh tortillas filled with richly seasoned pork shaved from a rotating vertical spit.
“My recipe is very special, and very old,” he said.
Yet while Morales’ family recipes go back generations, and similar spit-roasted meats like shawarma and doner have been around for hundreds of years, his tacos represent a kind of cuisine that’s as contemporary and international as it is ancient and traditional. When you thread meat onto a spinning spit to roast it, it turns out, it doesn’t stay in one place for long.
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‘Any place you have a pointy stick or a sword’
Roasting meat on a spit or stick is likely among humans’ most ancient cooking techniques, says food historian Ken Albala, a professor of history at the University of the Pacific.
Feasts of spit-roasted meat appear in the Homeric epics The Iliad and The Odyssey, writes Susan Sherratt, emeritus professor of East Mediterranean archaeology at the University of Sheffield, in the journal Hesperia.
Iron spits that might have been used for roasting appear in the Aegean starting in the 10th century BCE. Such spits have been unearthed in tombs associated with male warriors, Sherratt writes, noting that roasting meat may have been a practice linked to male bonding and masculinity.
“I think the reason that it’s associated with men is partly because of hunting, and the tools, or weapons, that replicated what you would do in war,” Albala said. “When you celebrated a victory, you would go out and sacrifice an animal to the gods, which would basically be like a big barbecue.”
Roasting meat is not as simple as dangling a hunk of meat over the flames. When roasting, meat is not cooked directly on top of the heat source, Albala says, but beside it, which can generate richer flavors.
“Any place you have a pointy stick or a sword, people are going to figure out very quickly … if you cook with it off to the side of the fire, it’s going to taste much more interesting,” Albala said.
Thursday, 18 September 2025 15:52
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Thursday, 18 September 2025 14:59
It’s no secret how President Donald Trump feels about sports teams turning away from Native American mascots. He’s repeatedly called for the return of the Washington Redskins and Cleveland Indians, claiming their recent rebrands were part of a “woke” agenda designed to erase history.
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But one surprising team has really gotten the president’s attention: the Massapequa Chiefs.
The Long Island school district has refused to change its logo and name under a mandate from New York state banning schools from using team mascots appropriating Indigenous culture. Schools were given two years to rebrand, but Massapequa is the lone holdout, having missed the June 30 deadline to debut a new logo.
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The district lost an initial lawsuit it filed against the state but now has the federal government on its side. In May, Trump’s Department of Education intervened on the district’s behalf, claiming the state’s mascot ban is itself discriminatory.
Massapequa’s Chiefs logo — an American Indian wearing a yellow feathered headdress — is expected to still be prominently displayed when the fall sports season kicks off soon, putting the quiet Long Island hamlet at the center of a political firestorm.
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The district is now a key “battleground,” said Oliver Roberts, a Massapequa alum and the lawyer representing the school board in its fresh lawsuit against New York claiming that the ban is unconstitutional and discriminatory.
The Trump administration claims New York’s mascot ban violates Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, which prohibits recipients of federal funds from engaging in discriminatory behavior based on race, color or national origin — teeing up a potentially precedent-setting fight.
The intervention on behalf of Massapequa follows a pattern for a White House that has aggressively applied civil rights protections to police “reverse discrimination” and coerced schools and universities into policy concessions by withholding federal funds.
“Our goal is to assist nationally,” Roberts said. “It’s us putting forward our time and effort to try and assist with this national movement and push back against the woke bureaucrats trying to cancel our country’s history and tradition.”
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